![]() This amount of amperage isn’t safe to run through the ignition switch, but it must be powered whenever the switch turns to “Start.” A relay acts as a bridge and has been used in cars for decades. This relay is responsible for powering up the starter solenoid, which requires high amperage to run. The starter relay is responsible for sending high amperage to the starter motor through a low-amp circuit. This is what leads to a clicking sound when you attempt to turn the key. However, when the starter relay becomes damaged, it’s possible that only a partial signal gets sent. It’s either going to send a complete electrical current or it won’t send anything. ![]() Most times, the relay operates on an all-or-nothing basis. It happens when the relay can’t send out the full signal. ![]() You might hear clicking noises when the car battery is low on amperage, but it could also be a sign that the starter relay is going bad. If the relay itself isn’t going bad, it’s also possible that there’s a faulty wire connection or one that has become corroded under the hood. Thankfully, you are getting a warning that the starter relay is going bad, allowing you time to get it fixed before you are stranded. If you start the vehicle and it doesn’t activate right away, but you try it again and it works, it might be the relay going bad. These conditions can force the starter relay to work intermittently. However, this part can become contaminated by dirt, debris, and excessive heat. When the starter relay works as it should, it sends power to the starter every time you engage it. Not only will this problem harm the relay, but it could also damage the circuit, starter, and transmission flywheel. If the starter relay remains stuck on, further damage is going to occur to other components. You will know this is occurring based on the whining noise you should hear. You will know this happens because the starter stays activated even though the engine is running. However, when the main contacts of the starter relay become welded together, it can stay stuck closed. This closed circuit removes all power from the starter motor. At this time, the circuit is supposed to close and everything should continue running as normal. Starter Remains On With the Engine RunningĪfter you start the car, you either release your key or stop pressing the button. Most often, it’s due to the failed circuit that prevents the ignition system from engaging. Regardless of whether you are turning a key or pressing a button, when the vehicle won’t start, it could be the starter relay. Even though these keys don’t use a manual ignition switch, the starter relay is still activated when the button is pushed. Even when using electronic keys, it’s possible that the problem is the starter relay. Typically, when the starter relay dies, the most obvious symptom is that the car won’t start. Here is a more detailed list of the signs of a bad or failing starter relay to look for: 1. ![]() You can sometimes also hear clicking sounds when you turn the key. In some cases, your starter motor may remain on while the engine is running if the ignition relay is bad. The most common symptoms of a bad starting relay are that your car does not start or has intermittent starting problems. We look at the symptoms of a bad starter relay, the function it performs, its location, and the cost to replace it. First, let’s take a quick overview of the signs to look for. If you are having trouble starting your car, it could be due to this part. Yet, this important component is often overlooked until it no longer works. I replace the ignition switch, the problem still persists.It would be impossible to start a vehicle normally without using the starter relay. I checked the ignition coil (when cold), the resistances were fine. I replace the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay, but the problem was still there. So I have been trying to solve the problem myself. I brought the car to the Mazda dealer: they did not see any code on the computer. Also, sometimes, if I try to restart the car after it was turned off a few minutes before, it will take 10-15 seconds on cranking before it actually starts. If this happens at high speed (I notice the engine light turning on and the car losing power for a second or two), the car restarts itself on compression, I guess, then keeps going. After approximately 30 minutes, it will start again. When this happens and if I pull to the side of the road, it will not start again right away (engine will crank, but that?s it). It always starts well first thing in the morning, but then it started to die on me when driving, just like if the ignition was turned off. I have a Mazda Protege 1991 with approximately 250 000 miles on it. I have a few more details on it now and since I have not been able to find the problem, I am posting it again with the updates.
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